Sunday, October 13, 2013

Prague, Czech Republic

(Ref the previous post regarding problems getting the blog online.  I tried an alternative approach which seems to be working.  Cross your fingers, and stay tuned.)

Another great breakfast buffet at our hotel in the woods in Moritzburg. (Cheeses, meats, eggs, cereals, four kinds of fish, breads and rolls, pastries, yogurt, fruits and vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers.) Then we made a brief visit to the castle on the island. Spectacular from a distance, and spectacular close up.

There was quite a display of how they had analyzed and recreated the technique of weaving large wall hangings from feathers, and then we got to see the real thing in the king’s massive bedroom. The hangings there were indeed original but had undergone quite a bit of restoration. No photographs were allowed due to the sensitive nature of the material.

Then to another exhibit that concentrated on illustrating the major scale of operating an establishment of this magnitude. Many detailed logs of kitchen activities, compiled with German fastidiousness, had helped the historians piece together what comprised a typical state dinner, and how many people it took to successfully make it happen.

Then back in the car for the drive to Prague. Dresden, the state capital of Saxony, was directly on the route and we had hoped to stop and see a bit of it, but time just wouldn’t permit.  We did manage to drive right through the area along the river where the impressive large buildings are located—it was mobbed with tourists and with people getting out of church—and it was easy to decide that the city would have required a visit of a few days, with a good guidebook.  Next time?

We intentionally took the back roads from there and were well rewarded with absolutely gorgeous views, both in far southern Germany and after we crossed the border into the Czech Republic. We would go so far as to say that the fall foliage, now showing a lot of red, was as good as one could find anywhere in New England, and the big vistas easily rivaled those seen in Vermont. (We tend toward smaller vistas in New Hampshire.)

The moment we crossed the border we encountered a mass of commerce. Many, many roadside stands all offering the exact same line of products: baskets, birdhouses, bulk packs of large bottles of soft drinks, and hubcaps! There must be tax or other such differences that cause this to all happen on the Czech side of the line. We resisted the temptation. We learned later that these establishments are all run by Vietnamese people. It’s a small world.

The Czech Republic was another check mark on Sue Anne and Bruce’s visited countries list along with Poland, as both places were out of bounds during most of our previous European experiences.

Easy trip into Prague, just a couple of times around the block to find a free, longterm parking spot, and we were at the Hotel Julian, as recommended by Rick Steves. Aimée and Steve had stayed there before, and it certainly lived up to theirs and Rick’s recommendation.

The main part of Prague is divided into a few distinct areas. One is the Old Town, which is really old. Others are simply pretty darn old. All have charm. We were staying across the Vlatava River from the Old Town. Vlatava is AKA Moldau, the name used in the music by Bedřich Smetana which you certainly would have heard if you had ever listened to Renée Chaney on WGMS in Washington. Here’s a link to a Youtube video of Smetana’s work, performed by the City of Prague Philharmonic Orchestra and nicely illustrated with pictures of the city.

After getting settled in the hotel, we started our late afternoon trek with a drink and a snack at a riverside establishment. We were right along the canal that led to one of the locks on the river, and we watched a number of river cruise boats lining up to await the lock. Then it was off to the Charles Bridge, which is totally given over to artists, souvenir sellers, and other such vendors, and absolutely crammed with pedestrians. Crammed. 

We walked a bit farther into the square, studied in awe the world’s oldest working astronomical clock (pre-Columbus), and then settled in for a great dinner at a restaurant that was on a quiet side street. Then we walked along the river with great views of the illuminated castles on the hills, the churches, and the many bridges, and then back to the hotel to rest up for the adventures ahead.

Approach to the castle from the town of Moritzburg

View out the back door

The lake continues behind the island.

Autumn roadside view in southern Germany

Another view from the same location

Autumn views continue down into the Czech Republic.

View from up there must be pretty nice.

Rooftop deck at Hotel Julian in Prague

Vlatava (Moldau) River in Prague, with lock canal in foreground

Nope, it’s not somebody driving up the river.  It’s a cleverly designed pedal boat.

Bridge over the Vlatava.  There were streetcars everywhere.








 

View from the Charles Bridge, looking upriver toward the falls

Typical scene on the Charles Bridge.  Sellers and crowds.

And lots of statues

This statue is occupied

Production line!  Woman preparing cylindrical rolls of sweet crispy pastry.  We had some with our hot wine.

Approach to the square, with astronomical clock on the left

View in the square

There was a police van in the square, open to offer assistance if required.  It featured a large sign warning of the danger of dealing with illegal currency exchangers who apparently often work in the area.  (Czech Republic isn’t in the Euro, so currency exchange is still a big thing here.)

The police van also featured this sign.

These fellows were also there, ready to take you on a carriage ride.

Bruce’s dinner at a nice restaurant just off of the square.  It could be called Rouladen Cordon Bleu.

The veggies were nice and crisp.

It was dark when we left the restaurant.  Here are some of the views we encountered on the way back to the hotel.

Fireworks were an unexpected treat.  I didn’t even see them till I inspected the picture.